Why don't clothing patterns fit me?

Something that has always stumped sewers is why the patterns they buy don't fit. This is very frustrating once you have spent your time finding just the right fabric, lovingly cutting everything out and carefully constructing your garment.

This week I thought it would be helpful to give you some basic steps to follow when buying a new pattern and then what to do before you cut it out. First, it's important that you know that pattern sizes do not relate to clothing sizes. In fact, you have probably found that the more you are willing to pay for a garment, the smaller the size will be on the label. Garment companies have their own internal sizing system and it varies from company to company.

So, step #1, go armed with your body measurements. The basic bust, waist, hip is what you will need and then look at the back of the pattern for the measurement chart.

If you are making a top, a dress, or jacket, your bust is the best measurement to work with as it is easier to adjust the waist than the bust of a fitted garment. If you are making pants or a skirt, then your hip is the measurement to work with.

After you get home, you will need to check the fit of the garment before you cut it out. Lay out the pattern pieces and measure across the fullest part of the bust, the waist and the hip. Subtract the seam allowances and then take these measurement around your body to see if you like the way the garment will fit. Is it too loose? or too tight? Make sure you sit down and check before you decide. If it is too large or small, then do the same process for the next size up or down.

Fit is subjective; everyone has their own interpretation of what is a comfortable fit. What some might find too tight another might find just right.

The next step is to check the length of the pattern compared to your body length. You will probably need a friend to help with this one. One of the most important measurement I have found for length is the "back neck to waist" measurement as I have found most garments on myself place the waist about 2" higher than where I want it to be! I need to compare what the pattern has given me to what I need and then either lengthen or shorten the pattern to be comfortable for me.

Remember, you wanted to sew your own clothes because you don't care for the fit and style of what is at the mall, so don't try to just create off the rack at your sewing machine. Check your measurements and make the pattern and garment fit you - customize and ignore the size labels.

All of our clothing classes include help in measuring and fitting the pattern for your individual figure. You might also consider the Bernina My Label 3D fashion software. They do have a free download version you can try to see what you think. Click here for the link